Hello 18th century, part 3: questions, answers procrastinations and other underwear

 I have put up the post about the stays about a day ago, and I've been already asked  a few things... Interestingly enough, not here in comments, not even in the comments of teh pictures I've dropped on FB and Insta, but privately... Do people stopped commenting on blogs entirely? I know it is much easier to click on a like button, but...

Anyhow, some answers.

No, I have not left the zip ties in the finished stays, I've put mostly plastic boning in it, and the same steel thingie we use for crinolins (and in some parts of corsets), they are in the middle of the back and the front. I've used about 10 meters from the plastic and 4X about 30 cm from the steel boning. However, zip ties are not wrong. You can get them in places like Obi, or Praktiker. I1ve heard people even using the plastic ties, post uses to anchor some boxed packages. 

I used front lacing intentionally, as one of my aims with this ensemble (and some that are in the plans) that I should be able to dress myself. Without help. 

Fabric for stays came from where most of my fabric comes: the cheap fabric store-chain called I Love Textile (ILT). Yes, coutil and strong linen is the best, but the strong, denim-like twill of the lining and the "pearly" weave of the outer fabric should work just as well. 

And then procrastination... so just while I was not able to figure out just how to bind of the tabs I've went and done something entirely different. Like making a false rump. I did consider making pocket hoops, crescent bumpads, but I've read that the 1775-1785 English and Italian gowns I've been aming for has the deep point in the back, that looks the best with the double false rump. I took a good look at the one the American Duchess have in her book and started to cut out the pieces. Interestingly enough the fabric I used is very similar to the one the rump in the book is made from. Now this fabric did not came from ILT, I brought it back with me from Miami in the late nineties. I never used for what I originally intended, but kept putting it around. I've made corset mock up from it, lining for a linen back-pack I've made about 20 years ago, stuff like that. It is strong, it has a bit of crisp body, so...

I've cut out the "skirt" (I've read somewhere that the fals rump works without the skirt, but is more comfortable with it, for example, it will not ride between ones legs). I hemmed the skirt and sewn around the two pillows, and turned them out. And then filled them. I actually filled them with the innards of a cheap ikea pillow, which is light and fluffy, and if I manage to push it enough so it would deflate in the rump, I can always add more. I actually used about half a pillow for the two sides, but later opened them up and took out about third of each, because they were just too big. 

Historically mostly they used ground cork, probably feathers, downs, and leftover bits of fabric cut down to shreds... Now if I would make a rump for showing in live interpretation I would make them from cut up fabri (as I could not find cork), but in my ecperience that it would be much heavier. 

Then for when I already had the stays, had the rump, but I was still trying to gather my wits up to actually start on the dress, I decided to make a petticoat. An extra petticoat is not necessary, the gown wouldwork only wiht the outer one I planned, but I figured it could not hurt. 

I used the typical double tied up version that was popular from the late 16th century. Used two panels of 140 cm wide white cotton fabric. Measured the needed length on the back (over the fals rump) and at the front and noted the difference (see the AD book for details).  I've sewn together the panes, about halfway through their lengths, taking care of leaving the opening on the top at both sides. Turned in the edges of the opening, and cut the front shorter than the back (as much shorter as much is the difference between the length at the back -over the rumps- and the front. Also cut two strip of the fabric, for ties (each tie is about 3 cm wide and 140 cm long). Marked the middle of both ties and both sides of the petticoat. also marked about 30-35 cm out to each side of the middle and gathered the rop into there. (this length depend on your waist... mine has expanded alarmingly over the last few years- thank you thyroids).  Then turned and pinned the strips and stitched them down.

When you wear, first tie the back on the front:

And the front at the back: 

To make my life easier, I did sew a tiny tab into the back only to mark it: 

Now, I had the dress I use for a chemise, the stays, the false rump and an undrepetticoat. 

I could not postpone the sewing of the garment itself, but that is for another post. 

However, when the dress was finally done, there was one thing I missed... In fact I was wondering that since I do not have any kind of bag to go with this dress/period, how will I manage my small stuff like my phone...I knew that traditionally they used separate pockets, but I was not sewing them. By the time I've finished my dress, I was done. My hands hurt, my brain hurt, I was tired, and hated the whole thing. So I will have to do without a cap or a pocket... But then Norbi asked if they are really that much work... well, with a sewing machine, they are actually quite simple. So what holds you back? He asked. 

you are right: 

I used the same  fabric from Miami, and the twill tape I had leftover from the stays. 

Thats it. 

I could not push away making the dress anymore. 

To be continued with that.