HA steampunk (pt3- the jacket- TV496-modified)

I had a shirtwaist, I had skirt and peticoats, and then I needed a jacket to complete the ensemble. 

I wanted those typical mid-1890-ies one, that one with the really big, poufy sleeves, so I started out with the Truly Victorian 496 Ripple Jacket. However, I did not like that its front does not close properly, there are only three strips, with buttons. Those are not that bad, it is much easier to adjust its size, if someone loose or gains weight, but... But I wanted properly closing fronts. 

I also did not like the very wide, almost flapping lapel, but no collarpiece. 

So I drew the front line in, narrowed down the lapel, and added a collar piece. 

Between the fashion fabric and the lining, I used a hard canvas-like linen, and after such a long time I did pad-stitching (honestly? I only used pad-stitching back, when I went to that technical school to learn to sew- right after high-shcool).

 Since I grown to love to wear my little pocketwatch (it is a mechanical piece I got in Prague at one of those times we stopped there coming or going to the Netherlands for an event), so I also added a watch-pocket.

Added an extra piece of the interlining (and pad-stitching) to the shoulder, and right above the breast, to smooth out the curve.

Yes, it took me a lot of basting to keep the fashion-fabric and the lining together.

Unfortunately, there are no more pictures of the construction, I kind of got lost in sewing and forgot to take more (but then again, this is more than I usually do). There was a collar, also padstitched, and a lining sewn in... I got some really cute red-striped acetate lining.  I guess, by now, you know, that I love those fun details, that are not necessarily visible from the outside.

... sleeve head puffed up and a little piece of ruffled hard tulle sewn in, to hold the sleeve's shape. 

I was thinking about the closure, as I originally planned buttonholes and buttons, but those are so fixed, and cannot adapt to the weight changes (even if it is only a kg up and down) of a female body. Besides, I wanted to add something steam-punkish and was researching some spider themed buttons when I bumped into these hook and eye solution. 

And now, the whole ensemble is done, and ready to wear.

The skirt had POCKETS!!!

Pattern: TV 496

Fabric: I Love Textil

Photos: Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto

I wrote about the shirtwaist HERE, about the petticoat and the skirt HERE.

Marie Antoinette (and her clothes)

 There is this huge exhibition in London, about Marie Antoinett and fashion, but for those, in Eastern Europe, for whom London is way to far and expensive (not to mention that there are no more tickets available to the exhibition, even though it is still open for a few more weeks), there is a smaller, but really enjoyable onw available in Pozsony (Bratislava), that is still open, until the end of February. 

Pozsony is only a couple hours drive from Budapest, but this exhibition is well worth the trip.

I've seen it, back in last fall, when we were there for the Bitka o Bratislavu (a reenactment of an 1619/21 event), and I came out with such a wide smile. 

Of course, there are paintings, like this one from Maria Theresa (and more from the family).

There are clothers that are reconstruction works. 

Like this one, based on this painting.

Or this one, based on another (from the style, later) portrait.

I found the italian gown's extremely long point on the back interesting. 

There are some original pieces, like this earlier Francaise gown:

In which I found the mising robing and the use of buttons interesting (but what gorgeous buttons!).

The clothes of men were not missing either:

Do you see all that gorgeous embroidery? 

More men's stuff:

More replicas:

Outerwear:

Just a taste from fashionable hairstyles, and their changes:

(I totally love this "hedgehog" style):

And a taste of the somewhat later (1875-1885), somewhat less formal styles:

In paintings:

Replicas:

And original pieces:

There are still a couple of weeks to see it. Go, if you can. 

Photos: Bodeszphoto

Weekly SO

 My strong opinion for this week, that Coca Cola is definetly better than Pepsi. 

I was always a Coke drinker, I always preferred it to Pepsi, however, I did drink Pepsi, when there was not Coca Cola. 
NOT anymore. I simply cannot drink it anymore. 

What changed? The recepie they use. They substituted part of the sugar in the recepie for artificial sweeteners, even in the non-diet, non-zero version.

Which I hate and cannot drink without gagging.

I wish I could, because it would mean, I coud save hundreds of calories a day, but I just cannot stand the taste. (I've read an article somewhere that some people think cilantro is the best herb ever, others think it tastes like soap, and there is a tiny DNA strip is responsible for the difference, and a similar tiny sequence defines whether we cannot taste the difference between using artificial sweeteers or absolutely hating its taste. 

I did not know Pepsi changed their recepie, until last year at some big family dinner, Norbi's aunt poured me some. They know I do not drink diet/zero drinks and they had a bottle or two regular Pepsi for me (the store just run out of Coke). But I just could not drink it. I did not understand why it tasted different. Until I learned the change about the way they make it. 

I know sugar is more expensive than AS (Artificial Sweeteners), and the Pepsy company saves a lot of money with this move, but... AS is not necessarily more healthy than real sugar. Also, people like me, who cannot abide the taste of AS will not be able to drink it anymore. I personally would even pay more, given the chance to choose between soft drinks made with sugar or AS.

HA (Historically Accurate) Steampunk (Pt2.-petticoat and skirt)

 Let's continue the Steampunk-ish Saga, shall we? 

I have underwear. Depending on the purpouse (will I wear it for Historically Accurate/HA event, for Historybounding (HB) or Steampunk?) I can wear it with HA underwear (as a chemise, corset, drawers, corset and corsetcover), or modern underwear (knickers, bra, pantyhose/leggings and an undershirt - yes, I am wearing an undershirt almost always, even with my modern clothing). 

The next step: I need a petticoat and a skirt. 

I've already written about how I sew petticoats for this type of skirts, and this one was made the very same way, from the same striped linen I made the shirtwaist from White linen with very dark gray /almost black stripes. 

With cotton lace. I love this fabric and I wanted to save as much of it as possible, I cut the waistband from two piece of fabric- remember, piecing is period: which means, that it is absolutely HA to piece fabric in order to save a bit of it. However, also for the sake of saving fabric I cut it crosswise, and the weft yarn is never as strong and stable as a warp yarn. Waistband cut crossgrain tend to grow a bit more easily. To stabilize it, I could use some fusible interface- but , much like zippers- I tend to avoid using it- if I can get away with it. At the end I decided to fold the waistband of the skirt one extra time (so there will be 4 layers instead of 3), and also, to make it more decorative/romantic, while also stabilizing it, I used a narrow cotton twill tape, and added the last bit of the lace I had left over from the shirt.

If you look close enough, you can see the pintucks on the ruffle. 

Then I made a skirt. It is really the same old, same old. 

Originally I planned this solely for HB and Steampunk outfits, but then an event popped up, where I would have needed clothes for a widowed character. Used the same trumpet skirt pattern, same length, same sewing. 

Naturally, I added pockets too.

And using the shirt and the skirt (with two petticoats) in a historybounding situation: at a koncert of the Palace of Art (MÜPA), with the black linen waistcoat, and a totally modern pair of boots.

(my hand is behind my back, because I am trying to hold the -by now- way too big waistcoat... I really need to make another one).

Fabric: I Love Textil

Skirt pattern: Ora Lin

Shirtwaist pattern: Truly Victorian

Waistcoat pattern: Black Snail

Photos: Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto

P.s.: I am writing about the shirtwaist seen in the pictures HERE.