Tuesday, February 28, 2023

...and repeat. Turning a cheap straw hat to an 18th century bergere hat - the second time

 And a little bit of whining. I mean besides basking in the glow and success of my Aidah gown I've fully meant to do one more post on it, with a video me twirling in that dress, so you can see how it moves, adding a link to Leimomi's blog, so you can see what other testers made from the same pattern, but admittedly (though, let me know, if you would be interested in such a follow-up post), I have been run down with the virus my son brought home as an (unintentional) Valentine's day present. (No, it is not "the plague", we've tested that). By now I am more-or less okay, except for the cough that goes on for the second week now, and it is still so intense and painful, as it was at the beginning. So much so, that when I cough, all the muscles on my head (and my body) are straining, and making it hurt in places I had no idea I have muscles, that are capable of pain. Like my temples... or at the top of my head (not to meantion my diaphgram, and/or my lower abs, but I got muscles in my back hurting as well). 

Anyhow, right after making the Aidah, I've made a hat to go with it, and other summery, 18th century stuff, as let's admit it, my poppy hat, as lovely it is, very limited, being red as a monkey's arse... I mean a poppy. The method was similar than the one I used for the poppy hat, I raided all the used-stuff-sites (Vatera, FacebookMarketplace, and the likes) for straw-hats that have at least vaguely okay shape, and went from there. I think the pictures are self-explanatory, but if not, just ask!

Started out with a hat that were made from straw-ribbons.

If you pull on the appropriate thread, it is easy to take the stitches out. I wanted a somewhat flatter hat than my poppy-hat was, so I left even less from the top part.
I moistened the top part and steamed it flat with my iron.
Sewed it back on, hoping that the decoration will hide the seam.





Sewn together the lining for the crown.

In one of the hats I own, I sew that little technique to make it somewhat adjustable... I've tried. It did not work. Don't ask. I will use hatpins. 


The deco from outside is a silk ribbon with box-pleats.
Since from the old drawings and paintings we know, that they didn't really used bergere-hats with the ties over them (as modern films tend to), but the ties went down just besides the crown, I cut the seam for about 2 cm on both sides, strengthened the ends with a couple of stitches, and pulled through the ribbon.


And then I sewed down the lining too. 
From outside, the flowery decorations were either stucked under the ribbon deco -between stitches, and sewn down, stitches hidden under the ribbon, others were stuck between, or under the already sewn down parts - no glue gun were used, only needle and thread. 

And what is a hat without some ostrich feathers, though for this one I wanted the white flowers take the center tsage, I only used a couple of feathers from the package of small, 10 cm ones.
I took the hat with me, when we shot the photos of the dress.



And the afternoon was rather windy, I still have to practice pinning the hat to my hair... 
Dress is made from Scroop-patterns Aidah Gown pattern.
Work photos from my phone.
Modell photos by Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto

2 comments:

Hana - Marmota said...

Very nice!
I think the bergére with ties over it is actually a feature of British "early Regency" - I seem to recall fashion plates featuring them being worn like that in more of a bonnet shape rather than flat. :-)

peony said...

That could be, though I do remember reading that for full out 18th century it would be a mistake... However, I am happy, that you understood from my clumzy way of phrasing, what I meant. Hurray.