I had a shirtwaist, I had skirt and peticoats, and then I needed a jacket to complete the ensemble.
I wanted those typical mid-1890-ies one, that one with the really big, poufy sleeves, so I started out with the Truly Victorian 496 Ripple Jacket. However, I did not like that its front does not close properly, there are only three strips, with buttons. Those are not that bad, it is much easier to adjust its size, if someone loose or gains weight, but... But I wanted properly closing fronts.
I also did not like the very wide, almost flapping lapel, but no collarpiece.
So I drew the front line in, narrowed down the lapel, and added a collar piece.
Between the fashion fabric and the lining, I used a hard canvas-like linen, and after such a long time I did pad-stitching (honestly? I only used pad-stitching back, when I went to that technical school to learn to sew- right after high-shcool).
Since I grown to love to wear my little pocketwatch (it is a mechanical piece I got in Prague at one of those times we stopped there coming or going to the Netherlands for an event), so I also added a watch-pocket.
Added an extra piece of the interlining (and pad-stitching) to the shoulder, and right above the breast, to smooth out the curve.
Yes, it took me a lot of basting to keep the fashion-fabric and the lining together.
Unfortunately, there are no more pictures of the construction, I kind of got lost in sewing and forgot to take more (but then again, this is more than I usually do). There was a collar, also padstitched, and a lining sewn in... I got some really cute red-striped acetate lining. I guess, by now, you know, that I love those fun details, that are not necessarily visible from the outside.
... sleeve head puffed up and a little piece of ruffled hard tulle sewn in, to hold the sleeve's shape.
I was thinking about the closure, as I originally planned buttonholes and buttons, but those are so fixed, and cannot adapt to the weight changes (even if it is only a kg up and down) of a female body. Besides, I wanted to add something steam-punkish and was researching some spider themed buttons when I bumped into these hook and eye solution.
And now, the whole ensemble is done, and ready to wear.
The skirt had POCKETS!!!
Pattern:
TV 496
I wrote about the shirtwaist
HERE, about the petticoat and the skirt
HERE.
No comments:
Post a Comment