More than once you've heard me saying that the biggest secret of historical clothing is underwear, what is underneath the clothes people generally see.
More than once you've hear me saying that petticoats are important for historical clothing.
If you have some kind of understructure, like panniers, crinolines, bustles, etc, that is why (so the lines of the structure would be invisible, smoothed over), if you don't, that is why (to properly hold out skirts).
But petticoats not only work for HA (Historically Accurate) clothing, but can also add a romantic, swishy element to HB (historibounding) too.
Last week I showed you, one of my favorite skirt patterns, the one I use for HA, turn-of-the-century skirts as well as more modern ones (Ora Lin's Trumpet Skirt). Now, I will show you, how I use the same pattern to make petticoats (underskirts) to wear with those late-Victorian/ early-Edwardian /historibounding "walking" skirts.
I already told you, that I usually cut the skirts I want to use for HA and HB as well between the so called "everyday" and the "floor length" line given on the pattern.
When I use the same pattern to make petticoats, I simply cut off about 20 cm from the bottom of each panel (if you are practiced and/or brave, it is enough to turn back the bottom 20 cm of the paperpattern, or you can make yourself a whole separate set from the pattern pieces - you can guess, which one I do).
Then I cut about 5-6 stripes of 15 cm wide, across the fabric, ruffle it up evenly and sew it to the bottom. I usually use a strip of lace between the skirts body and the ruffle, and on the bottom of the ruffle, but the petticoat works without that as well. If I have a few extra cm's of the fabric, I cut the ruffles 1-3 cm wider and put 0,5 cm wide pintucks into the ruffles, so it holds the skirt out even wider.
There isn't much to sewing them, but I might just do a detailed post if I managed to photograph the process. Would you be interested?
In some cases, I weat two petticoats, other times only one.
Fabrics: I Love Textil
Pattern: Trumpet Skirt (Ora Lin)
Photos: Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto
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