Split Skirt and Reconstructing History patterns (RH1024)

 In other words, the last round of sporting clothes... At least for now. (and of course, we should never say never, or never again). 

I could never really decide that for those sporting/biking clothes which one I like better, the one with bloomers or the one with split skirts. I have sewn both for the fall/winter season, from the dark gray wool, and yes, I have sewn both for the summer, from white linen. You've seen the bloomers in the last post, and here is the split skirt.

I made the previous one (which I planned as a useable mock-up) from a Truly Victorian pattern and while it is okay, I knew that there is another style I like much better. The one that has no front panel, not buttoned up front, but a big fold. 

However I could only find two patterns in this style, one that had a drawing one needs to be enlarged and though it is available for free, but still has only one size. 

The other is from a company named Reconstructing History. Which has a "Reputation". A reputation which is not good. Not good at all. In fact, whenever their name pops up in one of the groups of the historical sewing communities, the unified reaction that the only thing to do with them is to throw them onto the fire and slowly back away. So, I considered myself warned and yes, I did went into this with my eyes wide open.

For the above reason, I have avoided them for many years, even though there are things, periods only they have stuff for. The style of bicycle/split skirt I liked was one of those.  However, my friend, Anna bought a couple of their patterns, before she read up on them, and she said, they are not THAT bad. And I wanted *that* style of split skirt really bad. So, after much consideration, I have decided to give them a chance. 

I have been sewing for more than 40 years now. I am a learned dressmaker... I like to think I know what I am doing. What could happen? The pattern's lines don't line up? Well I can draw a line that straightens it. Some pieces missing? I can draw up a pocket or a collar if necessary. Sizing is off? I will need to make a mock up anyway, and fit things to the given body. A step or two is missing form the instructions? I hardly need to read the instructions anyway.

I bought the printable PDF pattern (for A4 sized papers). When I was taping the patternpieces together, there are no clear sign where to put them together. On the patterns I used before there were very clear sign, where to put the sheets together and how to tape them. With this, it was kind of a guesswork, just how much the sheets should cover each other. 

The split skirt's pattern had 4 major pieces, of which 2 and two should have been taped together again. (This is a split skirt, or as we say, a "pantskirt", a pant that has legs so wide, as a skirt's hem, so the pieces to cut out are huge). Out of the 4 pieces one had the markings on their underside, which made transfer the markings more difficult, but, here comes the point, when you have to know what you are doing to see and realize that you cannot fit the pieces together, because you have to turn one of them upside down.

Once I had the pattern pieces, I felt brave (and umm, I had little time before the event I planned to weat it) and insted of a mock up fabric, I've cut them out directly from my fashion fabric. After all, this is a piece that is fitted with pleats. I used that piece of linen, I originally bought for the bloomers. Thankfully I was kind of generous, when I ordered, otherwise the three meters I needed for the breeches wouldn't have been enough, but the 4 meters I had was. 

The pattern itself comes in two length (everyday and full), I drew the line between the two.

As for sewing and the instructions (and the markings...). The pleats fell to totally different places than the markings show, but I kind of expected that. There was one step missing from the instructions. There is absolutely no mention of what one should do with the front, when looking at the drawing it is rather clear that there is a seam that closes the front pleats for about 10-20 cm-s. I did sew it up, and then stitched it down. 

The fact that I had to cut off about five cm-s from the waist has noting to do with the pattern, but much more with my short waisted figure. 

I added an extra stitched down "flap" and buttonholes to the sides, so the skirt can be buttoned up. I used the same mother-of pearl buttons as at the bloomers and the white waistcoat, though I ended up using the split skirt with a polka dot blouse and the black striped waistcoat I originally made my historybounding outfit, that we still have not managed to fotograph in full. 

So, what do I think about the pattern?

As my friend, Anna said, no it was not as bad as its reputation. 

Would I suggest it to a beginner? No, I would not. Putting it together was not difficult, however it needs enough experience to see which part goes to where, to realize that a part is marked on its wrong side, to see something is missing from the instructions and make up for it. 

Would I suggest to an experienced sewist? Well, it is not for the faint of heart, I admit, but if said sewist does not get a panic attack if two pieces does not match perfectly but make up for the diference with an educated guess, if said sewist is willing to make a mock up where s/he figures out exact fitting, techniques, etc, in short, would only use the pattern as a starting point, then, yes, I would. 

Would I buy/make another of their patterns? Admittedly, the split skirt was a fairly simple piece, so there was relatively little space for errors, and there were errors, but then I could deal with them. To asnwer my question, yes, I will. I will get another one, probably something that is slightly more complicated, and go from there. 

All in all, I did enjoy making this split skirt, I managed to do it in a limited time, and I LOVED wearing it, and yes, I am planning to make other pieces from this pattern.

Pattern (Split Skirt): Reconstructing History 1024

Pattern (waistcoat): Black Snail

Shirt and hat: secondhand.

Linen: Bublákovo

Photo: Varga Norbert @ Bodeszphoto