Weekly SO

 About 12 or so years ago a teacher in my son's school happened to say to him: 

"Why did you tell your mother, you should not told her..." (that he got some unjust punishment in recess, but that really does not matter). Said a teacher to my son, in his shcool.

The next morning I was screaming the head off the principal, with fomaing mouth that how the hell DARES SHE to say to my son, that there is ANYTHING in this world, he "should not" tell me. 

I was raising him, and hammering into him that whatever it is, really, WHATEVER, he should come to me first. Even if he done something really bad. Even if he killed someone. I want him to come to me first. I will help him dig a grave, then scream his head off, then I will help him to figure out what next. But he SHOULD. COME. TO. ME. FIRST. 

I think I was successful, so much so, that when in an outing he fell of a tree and broke his femur (thigh-bone), and he was out of his mind with pain, and later when the doctor arriving in the emergency car, pumped him with painkillers so much he hardly knew his name, the only thing he kept repeating: "Mom, call mom, please call my mom. And when I reached" him, the only thing he told me: "Mama, come for me mama, come for me."

That is the thing. He still comes to me first. 

And I still would scream off the head of anyone, who would tell a kid otherwise.

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 You've seen me sewing covers/holders for the windpipe insturments my reenactor friend makes, and there was another batch of them made for single flutes. Mostly leftover bits of fabrics, supplemented with a few pieces I bought in I Love Textile for this. 

Monday's patternmuster (sewing): The easiest historical skirt (Ora Lin's trumpet skirt)

After the last time I stated that these monday patternmustern suggestions are patterns that I have not tried (because if I would have, I would have a separate post about it, with a review and such). However, I made this skirt more than two years ago, never posted about it, nor did I photographed the making of it. On the other hand I love this pattern and used it more than once, and I can wholeheartedly stand by it. So, there you go.

I have been asked, from time to time, what is the historical item that is the easiest to make. 

There are obvious suggestions, like making a shift (undershirt), or making an 18th century petticoat, but both has a drawback... they are not too practical in our modern lives. Yes, the shift can be used as a nightshirt or a summerdress, and the petticoat can be worn as a boho-skirt, but let's admit, a floor length skirt has its limits.

Now the skirt I am suggesting can be worn in our modern times, and would not stand out like a sore thumb, and would fit into many situation, from office to evening wear.

The pattern is easily dowloadable, and can be made from relatively little fabric (considering that we are talking about a long skirt in a historical style). For this skirt I bought 3 meters of the red linen (it's been about three years ago-so pls forgive me for not remembering the exact amount), and I think I fitted it into 2 meters of 140 cm wide fabric. 

There is no zipper to sew in (though you can add if you want - as I said the last time, I prefer not to), and you can add pockets, if you are so inclined (the pattern for the pockets are available separately - free of charge.)

I do my bottom hems with a bias tape, but there are other solutions offered in the instructions as well.

The pattern offers three versions: An everyday length - for just that: everyday use, I think it is about calf length, or so. A floor length, and an extended length, complete with a train.

I cut my pattern pieces between the everyday and the floor length, so it is longer than the everyday version but does not touch the ground.

I use this pattern whenever I want a skirt that is either for modern use or can be double as a part of a historical ensemble and a modern skirt and/or when my fabric is limited length. 

To top it all, I also hack this pattern to sew my late victorian/edwardian petticoats, but I will show those in a separate post. 

Fabric (linen): Bubulakovo (the dark red color)

Skirt pattern: Trumpet skirt by Ora Lin

Photos: Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto

The mother of knowledge

 Repetition. (the the Hungarian phrase says). 

I always liked to have and/or make multiple version of things I like (mostly clothing istems). I am not sure if this is just me, or (yet another) sign of -non diagnosed- ADHD, but I have been known to have a certain top in like five colors, knit the same sweater pattern (Like the Rosamund cardigan or the Owl sweater, the Hey Teach or the Amela comes to mind),  in more than once.

The same goes for -some- historical dresses, you've seen me sewing the Aidah dress three times, and now here is some things that -once again- made with patterns I already used. 

I think I also told you already, how can I build up whole sets of outfits from the tiniest ideas, like a red shoe peeping out of under a long, black skirt or an artificial poppy in a window of a chinese brick-a-brack shop. 

This one came about because back in 2023 I made early victorian clothes for a museum (I never actually posted about them, but there is a picture, here), and there was a bit left over from the fabric I made the waistcoat from. I was a narrower than usual fabric (of course, from I Love Textile), most probably originally intended for neckties (?), in lovely blue and blue-ish purple. I kept it, because I wanted to make it up for an Edwardian waistcoat for myself.

I used the Black Snail pattern, and by now this is the 5th, (yes the FIFTH) version I have of it. I started with the dark red/bordeaux, then the dark gray one I made for my first biking set, and I made a black and white one for history-bounding purpouses, but somehow it found its way to my fully authentic historical wardobe (this blogpost was not about that waistcoat, but there is a picture, and I am still planning a full post on it), then the white linen one with the small flowers, and now this one. This time I choose the one with the high collar and one line of buttons (after all, I planned to wear this under a coat, and wanted to have some of the beautiful fabric showing.) for the back and lining I used light blue linen, and a hard horsehair-kind of canvas (both also I Love Textile). This Black Snail pattern is a dream to work with, it fits me like a glove (unlike most their other patterns that require mush more fitting), I am absolutely NOT surprised that this is their most succesful pattern. 

The skirt caused me more problem, though it was NOT because of the pattern. I used the same one I used for my bordeaux set (McCalls/Angela Clayton), and I already worked out its quirks (way too long and I use ith without the train). However, when buying the fabric (cotton duftine/duffel/velvetine? I don't actually know which one), I forgot that it has a nap and I cannot turn the pattern pieces in order to use less fabric, which was just a feet shorter than I needed... What was I am to do? Sent a message to the shop I bought it from asking if the have more, and would they, please cut me a piece of it... However, by the time I got to the store, and brought it home 1.) I realized that I don't need the full length of the pattern, and 2.) managed to play enough tetris and fit the pieces on the available length, so now I have another piece of that blue fabric, I might make a regency pellisse out of it... or something else.  I did sew the skirt together, in the late spring, and as I mentioned in earlier posts, I've let it languished with half of the hem sewn up, for months. By the time I took it out again, I needed to sew the hooks much further in, but that is one of the wonders of these edwardian skirts, they are rather easy to adjust for size.

The skirt was finished, and the waiscoat was sewn in the fall, when we were preparing for the customed gided tour we did with one of the museums. 

Fabrics: I Love Textil

Skirt Pattern: Angela Clayton/McCalls

Waiscoat pattern: Black Snail

Photos: Norbert Varga  @ Bodeszphoto

(Inter)national hat day

 There is a "national hat day" challenge on Instagram, and I thought, even though it is a day late, I'll show you (some of) the hats I use...

Oopsies...

 Yes, sometimes I write some posts beforehand and time the publication ahead... and sometimes, in a typical adhd way, I miss some small detail... this is how the strong opinion post appeared on tuesday instead of is usual wednesday... oh well...

Also, while I was sewing last weekend I broke the needle in my industrial interlock /overlock sewing machine... I knew I should have another needle (as it works either with 3 or 4 thread but I use it with 3 for most thing, and I took out the extra needle), but I could not find it. So, when Chris came over for dinner I asked him to drop in the store selling sewing machines and a lot of other sewing (and knitting) adjacent stuff (from magazines trough needles to industral steam irons. etc.) and bring me a packet of needles. 

I changed the needle, and something is messed up, because it just does not forms the loops the right way. It seems like, though I have not changed the thread tensions, either the needle-thread is too loose or the under-loop-thread is too thight, but no matter what I do it does not changes. In the meanwhile I slid down in a rabbit-hole of getting  new thread tensioners for the machine as the original ones it came with are old and broken, and I realized that you can find everything on the internet these days, maybe I can exchange this one to.... And of course in the meantime I did find the one extra needle I had. Still... 

I hate not having my basic machines in working order even if I do not plan to use them in the next few days, and it makes me even more antsy when I do... (and yes, I not only have plans, but actual cut out pieces I want to sew...).

Whining is over for today. Thanks for listening. Or reading. Or whatever.

Weekly SO

 To those bus/tram/trolley/metro drivers, who driving their wehicle, see someone running after them, and then wait a little, maybe even until they reach the door and THEN CLOSE IT at the face of their potential passenger... especially if you do this late at night, when it is really cold/raining/snowing, in the holday times, or when the passenger has packages/children with them...

I've seen that happen multiple times in the last month, from the vehicle, or happen to me, and you know what... it hurt me more to see it from the vehicle to happen to others. 

Anyway, if you are such a driver (while all my respect for driving in winter/night etc. conditions) go and step on some legos late at night, kick you toes at the door frame, and shit a hedgehog. 

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In which there is a picture that should need no comment, but i just cannot shut up, so you get a short comment too.

Something new and unusual (for me at least) is in the works.

Monday's Patternmuster (knitting)

It is not a secret that I like the foldover/wrap cardigans, and I also love the short bloero-type tops too.

Today's suggestion is this two things in one, as I brought you a short, wrap cardigan.

The Ophelia wrap. 

Light, looks easy enough to make, and it still has some finery with its lace-edge. 

The price of procrastination

 What happens, when you leave your unfinished item for half a year? 

It was totally my fault. Or it was the fault of the loss of sewing mojo, I dealt at the first half of last year. I was trying to push myself through a wall, and all the while I needed a coat/jacket for one of my (very) late Victorian/early Edwardian outfit, the one with the dark red skirt and waistcoat, however, I did not want to ruin the wool I had for this. So I dug out a piece of blue wool (one that some moth already gotten to) and decided to make a trial piece a kind of "useable mock-up"). As usual, my mind run with the idea, and in no time there was a full fledged whole outfit plan, complete with a skirt and a new waistcoat (ezekről majd a legközelebbi varrós bejegyzésben), thinking that a late Victorian walking skirt is easy enough to push me through the block. I did the skirt, up until it needed a hemline, and went on working in the coat.

I decided to use the Reconstructing History pattern (because it seemed simpler than the Black Snail one I also had). Yes, I know RH patterns have a really bad reputation, but as I already said when I made their split skirt, that these clothes reequire fittings anyhow, and I only use the patterns as a starting point, all the while I feel confident enough dressmaker, that I rarely read the instructions at all, so it does not scare me if they are not top notch.

I made a mock up from an old piece of fabric, I cut out the wool (carefully avoiding the moth-bitten part), started sewing, made to the point when it only needed the sleeves. And then I lost my momentum. Like TOTALLY. It was worst lull, than the one I started with earlier in the year. Like a total block. I had that skirt with a bit of hem done the needle hanging on the tread on it, and the rest left hanging and there was the jacket without sleeves hanging on the door of my sewing room (where my WIPs live). For months. Every time I looked it I felt ashamed, why can't I just finish these? Really no answer. 

Then the 18th century clothes and underthingies kind of dragged me out of the whole, and we had an event planned for the beginning of October... Outdoors, it was a city walk we did. In October the weather is definetly not warm enough to be outside in a waistcoat only (besides, that is almost like going out naked in period manners), so it was high time for me to finish the coat.

Right, but I lost more than 15 kilos in the meanwhile, and the coat.... khmmm, did not fit me well. I've tried/did what I could by taking in at the sides, putting the buttonholes even further from the front edge, but I was not up to completely take the thing apart (which would have meant not only taking out the completed lining and skirt/peplum part, but also taking out the collar and the front line). You can't say, I am not brave, when it comes to sewing, send me a coat to embroider its hem, or make handmade lace for its cuff, I'll do it, but taking something apart that is already sewn and finished...something that was planned to be a useable mock-up to beginn with- Nope. Thinking that it is an outerwear anyway, more like a coat than a jacket, I said the hell with it, I finished the sleeves, and put it up as a finished item. 

Putting in the sleeves were no small feet either, because 1) the original sleeves in the pattern were way to long, and even though I took some of it's width out, 2) still way to wide... You have read above, I was way over this thing, so I just made a fold and stuck some decorative buttons on it. 

It does have a good enough silhuette from afar, but if you look closely, it is way to big at the back and at the breast. I am not sure what will I do with it, for now it is in my historical wardrobe, and I used it again, since (in an advent event). 

Most probably, now that I know and practiced making it, I will make this coat again, fitting it to my current body and fixing the sleeves, but until then... 

Fabric: I Love Textil

Pattern: Reconstructing History

Photos: Bodeszphoto

Weekly SO

 A fashion one this time.

I am ever so glad that the looser cut jeans (and pants in general, but particularly jeans) came (back) to fashion. 

I always liked loose, even soft, flowing pants (pereferably in white linen, LOL), and really didn't much liked the ones with thight cut. However, for years, no, even for decades, thight, skinny jeans were all in fashion. Even then, when there wasn't much choice, I preferred the "boyfriend cut". So you can imagine my utter joy, when this year all those fun cuts, like the barrel jeans, the horseshoe jeans, and all those wide legged jeans are available almost everywhere.

The drawback that "high waisted" pants are also in fashion, and those fun shapes almost always come with high waist, which I already ranted about back in the spring (HERE), and things are still the same with H and M, however, there are places, you actually CAN find mid (or even low) waisted, wide legged pants.

YAYYY.

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I was spinning again. Someone asked for a hank or two of these...don't even know how this type of "art yarn" is called...

The fiber came from my stash, I dyed it a year or so ago to some pastell colors.

 

Weekly Patternmuster

 I have been contemplating for a while to expand my weekly patternmuster column for sewing patterns, in fact one sewing pattern already appeared HERE. 

At the same time I always keep thinking to make a kind of a database for myself because... because as a knitter I feel I am ever so spoiled with Ravelry. I know they have been kind of controversial for a while now, but I do not care (nor do I agree with the complaints, but that is another matter). However, anytime I wonder about a yarn, a knitting pattern, a colorway, a technique, so anything knitting/spinning/weaving (fiber)-related, Ravelry is the first thing I open. The work Jess any Casey did is immense, especially with all the cross-referencing. 

With sewing, especially with more and more indie-designers and pattern-companies being around, whenever I start with a new (or even an older) pattern, my first thought is always to look for other people's experiences with the given pattern (or technique or machine, fabric, seller, whatnot). And not having such an extensive database, those are really hard to collect. Yes, there is pattern-review, but I usually find one or two variation of a pattern. There was a couple of other attempts to make a comprehensive page like that, but whatever I've seen, doesn't go near to the thoroughness of Ravelry. It is still so unbelieveavle for me, that nobody made one (if you know one, please don't hold back).

For a while I had one window, with about 30 pages open just to collect indie-pattern designers and patterns of theirs I liked, but that dissapeared once Microsoft decided to upgrade something and restart my computer at the wrong moment (thank arses).

I promised to have a summary page for the patterns I am talking about it, and the first version is here, just a page, linked in the sidebar. Over there will be two parts: on the top of the page the companies, and then lower a list in which there only will be a link, and maybe a picture (for now), probably a day or two after the post itself is published.

So first see the one I have open on my computer for months now:

Flourish Dress Coat Sewing Pattern 

From Twig and Tale.

picture is from the Twig and Tale website.

Now, these patternmusters are ones I have NOT tried (in that case there would be a post about the item, and in there a kind of review of the pattern), so I have no idea how good they are, but patterns I like and I would love to try, and I will tell why. (With the knitting patterns, occasinally I show something I actually DO NOT like and tell why, I have not decided yet, if that would make sense with sewing patterns).

Now, by now I think it is obvious I like historical clothes, and the shapes of historical clothes (BTW, would you like a series on what I learned from making and wearing historical clothes, and might even be applicable to modern clothes? ), and for the longest while would love to incorporate elements of it in my modern wardrobe. 

This coat would be a perfect candidate. I love that it is long and swishy, I can just imagine swirling around in it. It would look good with clothes that have historic moods. I love the lace detail at the back and I love that it can be made with or without hood. 

Hood

 I am nowhere near to account for everything I sew this year... I mean last year. 2025 that is, though they were in the summary GIF.

Like this medeival hood. Just about a week (maybe a week and a half, but not more than two) weeks before Xmas, I was contacted by someone I didn't know, that she would like to give her boyfriend a medeival chaperone, would I sew it for her... Since a friend of mine suggested she should come to me, and it seemed simple enough, I said yes. 

But how wrong I was.

Though I like to believe, I can sew a lot of things, and medeival stuff should not be the exception, that period is not my specialty, so I started to look up patterns and videos, while shooting messages to reenactor friends who know more about the medeival times than I do.

Which provided me with more questions than answers...

Hey, do you know that a "real" chaperone is actually a medeival hood put on sideways? (There are headwear that is only a glorified hat, but that is a later/aristocratic development on the type). 

Do you have fabric? Do you want it handsewn? What color would you like to have it? 

Do you know if we start to hunt for fabric NOW, we might get something, but for the price, you want to pay for the whole thing? 

(Don't start with a reenactor, S/he will bug you with questions and overcomplicate things). 

Turns out I had a piece of gorgeous Italian, blue wool left over, from a (guess what), medeival dress I made some years ago for someone I've met at the Historical Craft Fair. I never actually posted about that dress... But here is a pic from the fabric and the dress on a hanger):

Anyhow, I had a bit less than a meter and a half left over from this, and it really wouldn't be enough for anything else. The girl happily agreed to the blue color, and in the meanwhile she remembered, she actually wanted a hood, that can be worn sideways. Much like this? I asked. Yess! (and no, she does not need to have it handsewn, it was for fun, not full HA reenactment)

Hurray, I could narrow down the possibilities.

Yes, there hoods are pretty simple... unless, you want it lined. AND dagged (to have those little dangly bits at the bottom).

Then I though, why not use this opportunity to learn and practice, how to make them.

The videos of Opus Eleni were really helpful, and then I decided that partly as a thank you, partly to save time, I bought her pattern to use.

So, of course, me being me, went all out on fancy. for lining I got a piece of lovely wool/silk fabric (from I Love Textil, where the original fabric came from also, though I bought that years ago).

Choose the dagging with middle difficulty, but then deciding to stitch it around by hand, because machine stitch just would not be the same.

As we say, if we'll have a goose, let it be a fat one, so I added handmade textile buttons, and little hoops for buttonholes too.

All in all, though it was a last minute task, and that meant at Xmas eve I was sewing the dress I needed for an event on the 28th of december, I enjoyed it. I was always curious about this piece of clothing, I learned something. I thing the little dags are cute, and the piece turned out well. 

Start

 As usual, I start the year with the New Year's Good Luck Sweater.  Last year I swerved slightly from one of my usual, though rather loose, but self inflicted rules, by not having the main color of the sweater red, though in the red family (dark red, bordeaux)...

This year I was debating of going totally off course and making the white sweater I wanted to make for more than a decade now, staying "red-adjacent" (umm, pink), or go back to the original "mainly red" idea.

Guess which one I choose.

Going back to the mainly red, though it is still debatable just how many (mostly) red (or red and gray) sweater one needs.

What will be?

 I have no resolutions for 2026.

All I can is to put here Tara Shannon's note:

"You did it," said Bear. "You made it through."

"I did, didn't I," replied Rabbit, their thoughts balancing

on the edge of "what ifs" and "could have beens."

"But you're here now," Bear said gently, pulling rabbit back into the present.

"Yes," Rabbit smiled.

The two sat together in silence for a while, breathing deeply,

taking in the beauty of the world around them.

Finally, rabbit looked ahead.

"I'm ready. Let's keep going."

So let's keep going.

What was in 2025

(Almost) everything I've sewn in 2025...

It is not that bad considering that for months the loss of sewing mojo crippled me, decision and execution paralysis held me back for the first half of the year. It seems, I am back on track, but boy, it was scary as hell.

All in all, though 2025 had its good moments, I am still going to remember it as "not my bets year" (Far from it.)