Friday, October 24, 2025

Rococo, the second time... The Aidah Gown (again)

 At least second time in this year, because rococo is one of my favorite eras (alongside the renaissance), and this is not the second rococo outfit (that was my petrol colored Aidah gown) I made, but it is the second I am showing you... this year. 

And -as most of my stuff- has a story. Back, in 2023, when I applied to be a tester for the Aidah gown, I had their view B in mind, because I was in love with this gown...

The dress is in the MET museum, pictures from Pinterest.

So much so, I had a length of pink and white striped cotton sateen in my stash, for just this dress.

However, it turned out that I either messed up the application, or there were way to many people wanting to do that view, I was chosen to do the one that had the tabs, but without the diagonal cutline on the bodice. I did run out and gotten another fabric, and the result was fab, and looking pretty much like an existing dress, so I did not mind. Here is my blogpost on that dress.

But, I did that at the point when I was almost at my highest weight, and just at the time I started to loose weight. first very slowly, but just enough that by that late spring/early summer the dress was way too big on me, which ended up in some emergency sewing of an other 18th century jacket.

Then, I made my black, "Maria Theresa" francaise gown, and I love it. Not only do i love it, but it is in the style that works well for changing body measurements, its lining can be pulled in with its lacing, and also the "robing" can be pinned in or out on the stomacher a bit more to accomondate for lost (or gained) weight. 

However, one of the biggest event we do in 18th century is the "Baroque wedding" in Győr, wich is in early August, and that means we are out in pretty high temperatures, in blazing sunshine, on teh city's central square that has white, sun reflecting stones... In one word it is HOT there. Which is not going well together with a black taffeta gown. So much last year there was a moment, when I thought I am going to faint from a heatstroke, and at that moment I decised, that there is no way I am going there in that dress again. And since I lost even more weight this summer, I thought, it is high time I actually make that pink striped gown, I've put aside years ago.

I dug out my Aidah pattern (I still have the original test-version), but I only printed out the pages that had the lines for the bodice. 

Of course, I made a mock up, but time was thight and I only did a couple of photos while making it.

As usual, the inner, long seams were done with the machine, but most everything else, by hand... like the tiny stitching of the "zone front".

Pinning the knife pleats for the back, was yet again a feat (done it three times when I finally managed to get the pleats just right...)

Since the fabric came from that I Love Textile chain that sells factory rejects, leftovers and who-knows what, and this fabric was really not expensive, no wonder, it had parts where the printing had faults, though I thought, I had enough to get around those areas, and still have enough for a petticoat... The only thing I did not accounted for, was the fact that the pettocoat supposed to have a wide ruffle at the bottom. I also thought If not the original, wider stripe, but the narrower stripes  I had enough to do the ruffles, but nah, that was only enough for some decorative ruffles. 
I really had to carefully calculate the width of those ruffles to get them working, and since because of that once again instead of a reconstruction piece I ended up with one that was more "inspired by", I went all out of the decorative ruffles, using the bit of light, pinkish purple linen I had in my stash, and some silk ribbon.
And here is the finished piece:


If one really wants to compare it to the one, it was inspired by:

And at the end of the day, during the procession around the city.
Pattern: Aidah gown by Scroop Patterns

Photo: Norbert Varga @Bodeszphoto

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